Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.1 VM remplacement du joint culasse

Last night i think i made one of the biggest mistakes of my life! I changed the coolant in my 3.1TD but the engine was obviously hotter than i thought! I refilled the system with cold water to flush it again but when i tried to start the engine there was a massive bang and the engine cut out. It wont start anymore. Any suggestions? Did i kill the engine for good?

now my car is driving fine…I did change one cylinderhead, the one no 5, headgasked, bolts and the thermostad and I did flush out the radiator…I think the VM engine is relative easy to work on…the cylinderhead was an overhouled one, I hope it is as good as a new one:)

@feelyouremotions Ça va nouveau! J’ai toutes les matières de monter le moteur. Vous pour éviter le choc de la valve du piston et a dû tourner le vilebrequin du moteur pour le mettre sur le CDT du cylindre 1, presser la culasse 2-3-4-5, une rotation de 90 degrés vilebrequin et presser la culasse 1? La dernière question est de savoir si elles ont circulé autour, vous aviez le moteur en marche 20 minutes, puis revint à retirer les injecteurs et les autres à serrer la tête à nouveau. Merci beaucoup.

@rrjavierr Yes I identified the order of the cylinders (idem with pushrods) to be sure to respect the respective wear of the rocker arms and pushrods. But in fact in this type of old diesel engine with pushrods, it’s not as important as with a petrol competition engine. Maybe your engine will be a bit more noisy. Be sure that no valve keeps opened when it should be shut, but I dont think it is possible with a bit worn engine. Kind regards )

@oyli72 I took my radiator out and flushed it thru with a power washer until the rusty water cleared.If you’ve got the heads off good time to valve grind and generally tidy the heads.Another tip,get the engine as clean as possible.A thick coat of gunge doesn’t help the engine to keep cool.When it’s reassembled flush the whole cooling system with a good quality flush to get as much rust out as possible.Good luck with the job.

@oyli72 Maybe to late to help/Why did the engine overheat?.No reason not to change only one head.While you’re at it you should also,change the thermostat,get the radiator flushed.Move the top up water bottle up by unbolting it and putting some polystyrene under it.As high as possible.

@rrjavierr congratulations !! that’s what we call “system D” in France ))

@rrjavierr It was horrible to extract this “famous” bolt : I manufactured a special wrench, taking a box spanner and I filed it until its diameter was the smallest possible (I can send you a photograph of this wrench if you want)… I lost about 3 hours at least before thinking to do that ))
Concerning the injectors, I didn’t remove them, but it’ not a problem in fact… (I tried with an adjustable wrench, but It was impossible. I think it is an US thread).

Glad to help you !

@rrjavierr no need to move the motor, but you just have some millimetres to take the fourth and fith head off ! I bought gaskets and bolt in a specialized shop ( it depends from a shop line witch is called “ad” (it means “Auto Distribution”) in France.

@oyli72 on one of these pages :

forum4x4.com/threads/96268-D%C­3%A9montage-culasses-et-pousso­irs-sur-VM-2.5-TD

cambouis.com/land-rover/moteur­-VM-culasses-serrage/moteur-VM­-serrage-culasses.htm

@oyli72
I’ve always red that it was better to change all the heads when one is broken, because they never “work” (I mean are never bent) the same way after the engine has worked … but possible at least with low garanties of good result.

Concerning the bolts, it is absolutely necessary to change them, because they are “torque to yeald” bolts : when you tighten them, they are definitively bent and they loose their plastic and mechanical property.

@feelyouremotions the cylinder heads are very expencive to these cars, so I have to find a way to locate the broken one, I dont belive all 5 heads are broken…any idea how to do this?
did you change the cylinder head bolts?